Tree felling can be a dangerous task without the correct preparation.

According to various statistics available on the net, more people are killed while felling trees than any other logging activity.

When using dangerous equipment such as a stump grinder or chainsaw, your safety should be your main concern.

Protective clothing should be worn throughout, as cutting trees using a chainsaw can be particularly hard on the eyes and ears, so ensure you are equipped with protective glasses and ear plugs. Steel capped boots are also recommended.

Equipment Care

Never push the equipment beyond its limits. If it will not do what you want with reasonable ease and speed, assume you have the wrong tool for the job and contact your supplier for advice.

The law requires that personnel using chainsaws must be competent and qualified to do so.
Below is a guide which features a method of felling a tree. If you are unsure or not confident about any step, seek help or hire a professional.

Step one: Determine the felling direction and clear fall path

Before you begin, try and aim for a clear landing. Avoid felling a tree onto stumps, large rocks or uneven ground.

Determine a clear fall path and visualise the direction the tree will fall. These are important factors to consider when deciding which direction to fell a tree.
Start the top cut of the face using the gun sight on your chainsaw (PIC) to ensure you cut exactly where you want to cut. Observe the lean of the tree. It is usually easier to chop a tree in the direction that it is leaning naturally.

Step two: Creating the face cut

The face cut is created by sawing a sizeable cut out of the face of the tree. A top and bottom cut (a distance of about 10 inches should be enough). Start the bottom cut of the face, and begin on the side of the tree rather than the front. This will make it easier to line your cuts up should you begin by making an intersection of cuts. Simply pull your saw out of the top cut and tilt the bar down.

Step three: Top cut + bottom cut = the notch

The top cut is the first of the two cuts that result in the v-shaped notch. The notch is always made on the side of the tree you want it to fall. Below is the guide for making a top cut;

Starting Point – Begin at any height but make sure you allow room for the undercut.

Angle of Attack – Cut downward at an angle consistant with the type of notch you are making. Around 60 degrees should be about right. The humble notch method is recommended and involves making a horizontal top cut when then allows for vision with the saw’s sight.

Ending Point – Stop when the cut reached ¼ to 1/3 of the trunk’s diameter or when the cut reaches 4/5 of the tree’s diameter at chest level.

The bottom/undercut completes the v-shaped notch, and is cut underneath the top cut. The procedure for carrying out the bottom cut is as follows;

Starting Point – Start at the level that will create at least a 90 degree notch opening

Angle of Attack- Cut upward at around a 30 degree angle to create an open-face notch.

Ending Point – Stop when the cut reaches the end point of the face cut.

Step four: The back, third, and final cuts
The backcut is the last cut you will make and is made of the opposite side of the notch. The backcut will disconnect almost the entire tree from the stump leaving only the hinge remaining which helps control the trees fall.

Starting Point – Start on the opposing side of the notch at the same level as the notched corner.

Angle of attack – Cut straight along the horizontal plane

Ending Point - Stop at the point that will leave a hinge width that is 1/10 the tree’s diameter.

It is best to start the cut from the side of the tree and work the way around to the back. This helps achieve a level cut which will meet the cut on the other side of the tree when you get there. Remember not to cut too fast, as you can take too much off the side you can’t see which will leave the tree free to fall where it wants.

Step five – Falling tree

The direction of safe retreat is at 45 degrees from the sides of your cutting position. It is important never to retreat directly behind the tree, as the tree butt is liable to kick back during the fall, and it could result in injury. Also, never turn your back on a falling tree. Retreat to a distance of roughly 20 feet, positioning behind a standing tree if possible.

Step six: Limbing and bucking

Limbing involves cutting off the branches of the felled (or standing) tree. Get yourself a long reach pruner (PIC) and the job shouldn’t take too long. The main point to remember is limbing should be done on the uphill side of each tree, as rolling or sliding logs can be expected.

For larger trees, bucking involves sawing the felled trees into small sections called logs. Again, it is safer to work uphill to avoid any rolling or sliding logs.

Step seven: Removing the stump

To remove the tree stump you will need a tree stump grinder (pic). Remove all rocks and debris away from the stump and surrounding areas to avoid damage to the grinder wheel. Use the chainsaw to chop off as much of the stump as you can.

Position the grinder in front of the stump. Raise the grinder wheel a few inches above the stump, keeping close to the edge of the stump. Spin the grinder wheel and lower it into the stump. Move the wheel from side-to-side to clear out wood chips and raise the wheel, moving further into the tree stump. Repeat the process until the stump is thoroughly chopped and there is at least a 4-inch deep hole where the stump used to be.